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2015-2016 Silverado/Sierra Spindle Help
2015-2016 Silverado/Sierra comes from the factory with 2 different spindles, one with cast iron and one with cast aluminum. It is important to identify the spindle your truck has.


This a cast aluminum spindle. (Photo Courtesy of DJM Suspension)


 This a cast iron spindle. (Photo Courtesy of DJM Suspension)

If your truck has the aluminum spindle there is an option available for a drop spindle. MaxTrac Suspension offers a 2" drop spindle. Note: the MaxTrac aluminum spindle will only fit Pick Up Truck models featuring a OE aluminum spindle and upper/lower control arms.


Part Number 101520 (Click here to view)

If you do not wish to use a drop spindle, DJM Suspension offers 2" lower control arms, 3" and 4" lower control arms with upper arms. Contact our sales staff for availability and pricing. 

If your truck has a cast iron spindle there are two versions available from the factory. You will need to measure the BALLJOINT BOSS to confirm which route you can go.



(Photo Courtesy of MaxTrax Suspension)

If your OE cast iron spindle specs out to 1.273, you can use 2" drop spindles from manufacturers like Belltech, Street Edge, MaxTrac and Western Chassis.


(Photo Courtesy of MaxTrax Suspension)

If your OE cast iron spindle specs out to 1.500, you are limited to using DJM Suspensions control arms. Currently there are no drop spindles available. DJM Suspension offers 2" lower control arms, 3" and 4" lower control arms with upper arms. Contact our sales staff for availability and pricing. 

We will continue to update this post as more information becomes available to us. 


Submit your photos!
Each month in our Street Trucks magazine advertisement, we feature three photos submitted by our social media fans.

Here is your chance to get in on the action:

https://photovotes.pgtb.me/SSwtn1
What is BUMPSTEER?
Bumpsteer is something that some do not know much about or complain about. It not uncommon for customer who have installed lowering control arms or drop spindles to complain about bump steer. In this post we will provide you information to better understand what bumpsteer is and how it work.

The short story here is that excessive bump steer increases tire wear and makes the vehicle more difficult to handle on rough roads.

What is bump-steer?
Bump steer is when the front wheels move up and down, we want the front wheels to maintain a particular direction. It's most important for the wheels to have minimal bump when negotiating turns. There are certain elements of the construction of the front end components that will make this happen.
The angles of the upper and lower control arms, meaning a line extending through the center of rotation of the ball joints and inner mounts of each arm, intersect at a point we call the instant center (IC). This is one of the components used to determine the moment center location. In order to have near zero bumpsteer, the intended goal, we need to have the tie rods on each side point toward the IC for its side. This is one of two criteria for near zero B/S.
The other thing we need is for the tie rod to be a specific length. That length must be equal to the distance formed by 1) a line extending through the centers of rotation of the tie-rod ends, and 2) the tie-rod line intersection with a) lines extending through both the upper and lower ball joints, and b) the plane that passes through the inner chassis mounts. This can get a little complicated because although the ball joints do form a single line, the chassis mounts form a plane because of the front and rear mounts.
So, the inner tie-rod intersection point is where the tie-rod line intersects the plane of the inner mounts and the outer line intersection point is where it intersects the ball joint line. A three dimensional geometry program can simulate this very well, but most of us don't have the luxury of owning and knowing how to operate one of those. If so, we must go through the process of physically measuring the B/S in our cars.
What Creates Bumpsteer When the tie rod is not aligned with the IC and/or the length is wrong for the system, we have B/S. As the wheel moves vertically, the wheel will either steer left or right. We will refer to the direction from a driver's perspective only, in this discussion. 
If the tie rod was pointed so the tie-rod line passes below the IC, then the wheel will bump-in (toward the centerline of the car) as the wheel travels up, and bump-out when the wheel travels down. If the tie-rod line passes over the IC, then we will have bump-out as the wheel travels up, and bump-in when the wheel travels down.
If the tie rod were too short, we would have bumpsteer in when the wheel travels in both directions from the static ride height position. If it were too long, then the wheel would bump-out as the wheel traveled in both directions from ride height.
These indicators can tell us if we have either a tie rod alignment problem or a tie rod length problem. In some cases, both may be present and that causes a very erratic motion of the wheel. To determine which, record each inch for several inches of travel in both directions from static ride height and note the tendencies. You might have perfect alignment and a tie rod that is wrong for length. This could be due to a poorly designed drag link or the wrong width rack-and-pinion steering unit.
 Source: Hot Rod Network 
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ctrp-1001-bump-steer-explained/

Belltech 99+ Differential Notch
If you are going super low on your 99+ GM Truck you might have ran into an issue. Your bedrail gets in the way causing you to smack your differential on this rail. Belltech has a solution to your problem.


A simple notch assembly that will give you the extra space you need. Note: if you purchase a Belltech C Notch kit for the 07+ GM Trucks this notch is included!

This notch will fit your 99-06,07-13 and 14+ GM Trucks.

Belltech Part Number: 6655
Price: $89.00

You can order by clicking here
Got Camber/Alignment Issues?
One of the most common things we hear from 2007 to Present model Silverado/Sierra owners is "Why do I keep going thru tires?" and " Why does my wheel bow in/out?"

What is camber?

Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheel tilts inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical. Camber settings influence the directional control and the tire wear.

Too much positive camber will result in premature wear on the outside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.

Too much negative camber will result in premature wear on the inside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.

Unequal side-to-side camber of 1° or more will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the most positive camber.


Now that you have an idea of how camber works let's talk about how to fix it.

Belltech offers a 2* Camber Bushing Set (Part Number.4955) This kit includes (4) Upper Control Arm Offset Bushings.



You will need to press out your OE bushings and press in the new Belltech bushings. With the correct tools and patience this should take roughly about a hour and half or so to complete.

Here is a link to Belltech install notes if you want to read more on how to install

If you are still off on your alignment don't worry. Belltech also offers a 1* Cam Lock Plate Kit (Part Number 4951). You will need to remove the factory plate, elongate the opening and install the Belltech cam plate. With patience it should take about 45 mins or so.



Here is a link to Belltech install notes if you want to read more on how to install

You can also purchase the bushings and cam plates together with Part Number 4957



Here are a few examples of Kris' truck. This truck was lowered with about 4,000 miles on it. Now there is roughly 30,000 miles. Same suspension, wheels and tires. No rotation of tires either. There is roughly 80 % life left in these Falken Tires.





This truck is being the following components:





How to measure shocks
It's a pain in the butt trying to buy shocks for a truck/suv you bought lowered. Not knowing how much the truck is dropped makes buying shocks a difficult task. This how to will also be helpful for the trucks that have air suspension or running a super low static drop.

MEASURING POINTS FOR SHOCK ABSORBERS
measure1
Measuring points differ based on the mounting style. Extended and Compressed lengths are measured:
  1. From center of eyering to shoulder of stud
  2. From center of eyering to center of eyering
  3. From shoulder of stud to shoulder of stud
Once you have the measurements give us a call and we can help select a part number that will work. If you already know how much your truck is lowered CLICK HERE to find the part numbers you will need by Belltech.

*This is courtesy of KYB Americas website. We do not take credit for the images or text above.
How To Measure for Wheel Spacers
Another question we get often from our coilover customers is " Which wheel spacers do I need? " This is another question we tend to back away from. Here is why: There are too many different wheel combinations. By combinations I mean offset, diameter and etc.

The guys over at H & R have put together a simple HOW TO to know you are ordering the right wheel spacers.

1. Gather Tools
To properly measure your wheel gap you will need a few simple tools:

  • Measuring device with millimeter units
  • Straight edge--Yard stick or similar


2. Check Your Gap

  • Place a straight edge flush with the face of the wheel and tire combination. Make sure the straight edge touches the tire in two spots to keep the straight edge even with the tire.
  • Use the measuring device to measure from the inside of the straight edge to the inner fender lip. (see diagram)
  • Make sure that the measurement is taken at the point where the wheel and tire is closest to the fender. For instance, on a car with a large amount of negative camber the tire and wheel may be closest at the front or rear edge of the fender.


Now that you have wheel spacers do not forget longer wheel bolts. Here is how to measure the bolts:


Here is a video courtesy of H&R

**Note content of this blog post is courtesy of H&R's website. We do not take credit for any of the photos,videos or text of the how to content.
How To Properly Measure Vehicle Ride Height
We often get the phone call or email saying "I don't know how much I want to lower my ride." The best way to get an idea is to measure.

Here is how to successfully do that:

1) Park your vehicle on a level surface. By doing this you ensure accurate results when getting the vehicle's ride height measurements

2) By using a measuring tape start from the center of the axle hub going straight up to the bottom of the fender lip.

3) Repeat this process for all four sides.


This is also a process we recommend BEFORE you install your lowered/lifted suspension. By having before and after measurements you can know the total actual amount of ride height you have achieved.

Now that you have figured out the ride height for your vehicle you want to know what size wheels and tires will work. We typically won't suggest a size to you unless we have personal experience with the same vehicle and suspension as you.

We do have a niffy tool from the guys over at Discount Tire to use. By using their Tire Dimensions tool you can see what tire size and rim will work. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos

Ya we just gave you some homework, but hey look at it this way at least by doing the measurements we can ensure you order the right stuff the first time and will be happy with your new stance.
Photoshoot of 2013 Chevy Silverado Reg Cab
After the dust settled from SEMA and the holidays were over we finally had a chance for some photos. We enlisted the help of a local photographer and model. Special thanks to the following sponsors:


  • AVS
  • Budnik Wheels
  • Belltech Sport Trucks
  • Settin Trendz
  • Fresno Unlimited
  • Street Scene Equipment
  • Roadwire Leather Interiors
  • Wilwood Disc Brakes
  • Falken Tires
  • Viair Corp
  • Soundstream Audio
  • Spyder Auto
  • Bedrug
  • Leer
  • TRex Grilles
  • Coverking
  • Airaid
  • Magnaflow Exhaust
  • Dynamite Car Audio Clovis
  • Airlift
  • Optima Batteries







Now for the photos you were waiting for......






Paint & Exterior Goodies!
Now that we have a solid suspension, brakes and engine performance we needed to make sure that the exterior followed suit. Settin Trendz in Fresno, California could not have done a better job. For the exterior a mix of Spyder Auto, Street Scene, Settin Trendz, BedRug, Bushwacker and AVS products were installed.

We dropped off the truck with Jeff at AVS for a bolt in door popper kit and alarm. Jeff installed a bolt in door popper kit (part number TBA), pre wired wiring harness, interior rocker switch and an alarm system. After Jeff was all finished up the truck went over to Settin Trendz to begin the transformation.




Settin Trendz used their own custom made filler plates for the door handles and stake pockets. Adam has designed form fitting end caps to be used with the steel Street Scene rollapn. (Street Scene Part# 950-71128)

After a few days in the hands of Settin Trendz we ended up with this

Here you will find more details of the parts used to achieve this simple and clean look

BedRug Part #BRC07SBK

Bushwacker Tailgate Cap Part #48516

Street Scene Steel Rollpan Part#950-71128
Street Scene Tailgate Handler Relocator Part#950-61131
Spyder Auto Tail Lights Part#5001795

Street Scene Electric Mirrors Part#  950-11960

Street Scene Steel Cowl Hood Part# 950-71129


Street Scene Billet Grille Upper Part# 950-80176
Street Scene Billet Grille Bumper Part# 950-80177
Spyder Auto Headlights Part# 5033871

Budnik Billet 22" Tungsten 6 Wheels


Roadwire Interior & Sound Stream Audio
When you drive a lot you want a comfortable interior and some jams. Roadwire was the first company to come to mind when discussing converting our cloth seats over to leather & suede. We decided to go with a Black Leather base with black suede insert topped off with red stitching. After a few hours at Fresno Unlimited for installation we ended up with a perfect result. Note: We didn't use the headrests because we thought it looked bitchin' without.



As you know we bought a WORK TRUCK edition of the Regular Cab Silverado. We couldn't add a Roadwire kit without swapping the vinyl mat to a custom made carpet kit by Fresno Unlimited.


Now on the the tunes. After using Pioneer headunits in the past we picked up a Navigation Touch Screen Pioneer headunit. I picked up a PAC GM29 module to maintain all the factory chimes off eBay for about $25 and a Metra install/wiring harness kit for $20.



Chris and his guys over at Dynamite Car Audio in Clovis, CA were ready to get their hands on the truck to install the goodies we received from Sound Stream. Sound Stream sent us over a 10" subwoofer from their Picasso line.(Part# PCO.10). To power their subwoofer we received a 640 watt amp. (Part #PN5.640D). To finish off the sound system we used a Sound Stream components kit and speakers. Dynamite Car Audio finished off the simple and clean interior by wrapping a custom made speaker box in matching black suede.



Stay tuned for more on the SEMA build!




Belltech Suspension and Wilwood Brakes
I have to admit this is the week I have been waiting for since I sprained my ankle getting out of the truck. Ya it's okay you can laugh.

Our truck features a Belltech complete 5/8 lowering kit, Wilwood braking system, Airlift helper bags with a WirelessOne system finished up with a Viair air management system.

Here is the list of components from Belltech we used to get the 5/8 drop.
  • 2" Drop Spindles Part# 2511
  • 2" Lowering Springs Part#12464
  • Camber Bushings & Cam Plates Part#4957
  • Lowering Struts Part#25003
  • Front 1 3/8" Diameter Sway Bar Part#5407
  • 7" Flip Kit Part#6522
  • 1" Shackle Part#6700
  • C-Notch Kit Part#TBA
Belltech's new 2" drop spindle Part#2511 (More info coming soon!)

Bigger sway bar Part#5407

Belltech kept it classic with their notch design for this truck. More info coming soon!

Stopping power is always a huge plus. The rear of our truck came with a drum. Luckily the guy's over at Wilwood had a solution to get us running a 6 piston front and 4 piston rear system. To achieve the 4 piston rear system we had to purchase GM Part# 19178787 (x2) and GM Part# 15012506 (x4).

GM Part# 19178787 (x2)

GM Part# 15012506 (x4)

Front Completed

Rear Completed

Here is a before and after of our truck.

Stay tuned for the Airlift Helper Bag and Viair Air Management install....






Some Performance Goodies!
The clock is ticking fast til the SEMA SHOW. After receiving an Airaid Intake System and Throttle Body, Optima Yellow Top Battery and Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust we got to town on installing it.

The Airaid Intake System and Throttle Body installed in less than an hour. Our 2013 Silverado has just a little 4.3 so any extras help! We used part number 200-585-1 for the Throttle Body and  200585-1 for the Intake System. We wanted a deeper sound from our exhaust none better to use then a Magnaflow's Cat Back System Part#17101. The truck has a much better sound and better throttle response.

Before

Stock Air Box

After

Before

After

Optima Battery Installed

Before

After w/ Magnaflow's Cat Back System




SEMA Build
With the SEMA show just months away we decided to pick up a project. A brand new 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD V6 from Merle Stone in Tulare, California. Within hours of picking up the truck we called our good friends over at Settin' Trendz in Fresno, California for a conceptual rendering.



First thing Monday morning we called Belltech Sport Trucks to see how low we can get our Regular Cab. With surprise Belltech told us we can get a 6/9 drop with their components.

Belltech 6/9 Lowering Kit w/ Front Sway Bar

After a few discussions with the marketing team at Belltech we were invited to be apart of the Belltech SEMA display. Robbie & Brian of KEG Media jumped on the opportunity to design the computerized renderings for all of Belltech's SEMA builds including ours.



Since we saved a few bucks by selecting the V6 model we needed to add a little power and sound to our truck. Our longtime build partners Magnaflow, Optima Batteries, AVS and Airaid sent us some goodies.

AVS Shaved Door Kit with 8 Channel Remote System

Airaid Air Intake System & Throttle Body Spacer

Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust System

Optima Batteries Yellow Top

Stay Tuned for how to articles on how all of these products install and look on our build!