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2015-2016 Silverado/Sierra Spindle Help
2015-2016 Silverado/Sierra comes from the factory with 2 different spindles, one with cast iron and one with cast aluminum. It is important to identify the spindle your truck has.


This a cast aluminum spindle. (Photo Courtesy of DJM Suspension)


 This a cast iron spindle. (Photo Courtesy of DJM Suspension)

If your truck has the aluminum spindle there is an option available for a drop spindle. MaxTrac Suspension offers a 2" drop spindle. Note: the MaxTrac aluminum spindle will only fit Pick Up Truck models featuring a OE aluminum spindle and upper/lower control arms.


Part Number 101520 (Click here to view)

If you do not wish to use a drop spindle, DJM Suspension offers 2" lower control arms, 3" and 4" lower control arms with upper arms. Contact our sales staff for availability and pricing. 

If your truck has a cast iron spindle there are two versions available from the factory. You will need to measure the BALLJOINT BOSS to confirm which route you can go.



(Photo Courtesy of MaxTrax Suspension)

If your OE cast iron spindle specs out to 1.273, you can use 2" drop spindles from manufacturers like Belltech, Street Edge, MaxTrac and Western Chassis.


(Photo Courtesy of MaxTrax Suspension)

If your OE cast iron spindle specs out to 1.500, you are limited to using DJM Suspensions control arms. Currently there are no drop spindles available. DJM Suspension offers 2" lower control arms, 3" and 4" lower control arms with upper arms. Contact our sales staff for availability and pricing. 

We will continue to update this post as more information becomes available to us. 


Submit your photos!
Each month in our Street Trucks magazine advertisement, we feature three photos submitted by our social media fans.

Here is your chance to get in on the action:

https://photovotes.pgtb.me/SSwtn1
What is BUMPSTEER?
Bumpsteer is something that some do not know much about or complain about. It not uncommon for customer who have installed lowering control arms or drop spindles to complain about bump steer. In this post we will provide you information to better understand what bumpsteer is and how it work.

The short story here is that excessive bump steer increases tire wear and makes the vehicle more difficult to handle on rough roads.

What is bump-steer?
Bump steer is when the front wheels move up and down, we want the front wheels to maintain a particular direction. It's most important for the wheels to have minimal bump when negotiating turns. There are certain elements of the construction of the front end components that will make this happen.
The angles of the upper and lower control arms, meaning a line extending through the center of rotation of the ball joints and inner mounts of each arm, intersect at a point we call the instant center (IC). This is one of the components used to determine the moment center location. In order to have near zero bumpsteer, the intended goal, we need to have the tie rods on each side point toward the IC for its side. This is one of two criteria for near zero B/S.
The other thing we need is for the tie rod to be a specific length. That length must be equal to the distance formed by 1) a line extending through the centers of rotation of the tie-rod ends, and 2) the tie-rod line intersection with a) lines extending through both the upper and lower ball joints, and b) the plane that passes through the inner chassis mounts. This can get a little complicated because although the ball joints do form a single line, the chassis mounts form a plane because of the front and rear mounts.
So, the inner tie-rod intersection point is where the tie-rod line intersects the plane of the inner mounts and the outer line intersection point is where it intersects the ball joint line. A three dimensional geometry program can simulate this very well, but most of us don't have the luxury of owning and knowing how to operate one of those. If so, we must go through the process of physically measuring the B/S in our cars.
What Creates Bumpsteer When the tie rod is not aligned with the IC and/or the length is wrong for the system, we have B/S. As the wheel moves vertically, the wheel will either steer left or right. We will refer to the direction from a driver's perspective only, in this discussion. 
If the tie rod was pointed so the tie-rod line passes below the IC, then the wheel will bump-in (toward the centerline of the car) as the wheel travels up, and bump-out when the wheel travels down. If the tie-rod line passes over the IC, then we will have bump-out as the wheel travels up, and bump-in when the wheel travels down.
If the tie rod were too short, we would have bumpsteer in when the wheel travels in both directions from the static ride height position. If it were too long, then the wheel would bump-out as the wheel traveled in both directions from ride height.
These indicators can tell us if we have either a tie rod alignment problem or a tie rod length problem. In some cases, both may be present and that causes a very erratic motion of the wheel. To determine which, record each inch for several inches of travel in both directions from static ride height and note the tendencies. You might have perfect alignment and a tie rod that is wrong for length. This could be due to a poorly designed drag link or the wrong width rack-and-pinion steering unit.
 Source: Hot Rod Network 
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ctrp-1001-bump-steer-explained/

Belltech 99+ Differential Notch
If you are going super low on your 99+ GM Truck you might have ran into an issue. Your bedrail gets in the way causing you to smack your differential on this rail. Belltech has a solution to your problem.


A simple notch assembly that will give you the extra space you need. Note: if you purchase a Belltech C Notch kit for the 07+ GM Trucks this notch is included!

This notch will fit your 99-06,07-13 and 14+ GM Trucks.

Belltech Part Number: 6655
Price: $89.00

You can order by clicking here
Got Camber/Alignment Issues?
One of the most common things we hear from 2007 to Present model Silverado/Sierra owners is "Why do I keep going thru tires?" and " Why does my wheel bow in/out?"

What is camber?

Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheel tilts inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical. Camber settings influence the directional control and the tire wear.

Too much positive camber will result in premature wear on the outside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.

Too much negative camber will result in premature wear on the inside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.

Unequal side-to-side camber of 1° or more will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the most positive camber.


Now that you have an idea of how camber works let's talk about how to fix it.

Belltech offers a 2* Camber Bushing Set (Part Number.4955) This kit includes (4) Upper Control Arm Offset Bushings.



You will need to press out your OE bushings and press in the new Belltech bushings. With the correct tools and patience this should take roughly about a hour and half or so to complete.

Here is a link to Belltech install notes if you want to read more on how to install

If you are still off on your alignment don't worry. Belltech also offers a 1* Cam Lock Plate Kit (Part Number 4951). You will need to remove the factory plate, elongate the opening and install the Belltech cam plate. With patience it should take about 45 mins or so.



Here is a link to Belltech install notes if you want to read more on how to install

You can also purchase the bushings and cam plates together with Part Number 4957



Here are a few examples of Kris' truck. This truck was lowered with about 4,000 miles on it. Now there is roughly 30,000 miles. Same suspension, wheels and tires. No rotation of tires either. There is roughly 80 % life left in these Falken Tires.





This truck is being the following components:





How to measure shocks
It's a pain in the butt trying to buy shocks for a truck/suv you bought lowered. Not knowing how much the truck is dropped makes buying shocks a difficult task. This how to will also be helpful for the trucks that have air suspension or running a super low static drop.

MEASURING POINTS FOR SHOCK ABSORBERS
measure1
Measuring points differ based on the mounting style. Extended and Compressed lengths are measured:
  1. From center of eyering to shoulder of stud
  2. From center of eyering to center of eyering
  3. From shoulder of stud to shoulder of stud
Once you have the measurements give us a call and we can help select a part number that will work. If you already know how much your truck is lowered CLICK HERE to find the part numbers you will need by Belltech.

*This is courtesy of KYB Americas website. We do not take credit for the images or text above.
How To Measure for Wheel Spacers
Another question we get often from our coilover customers is " Which wheel spacers do I need? " This is another question we tend to back away from. Here is why: There are too many different wheel combinations. By combinations I mean offset, diameter and etc.

The guys over at H & R have put together a simple HOW TO to know you are ordering the right wheel spacers.

1. Gather Tools
To properly measure your wheel gap you will need a few simple tools:

  • Measuring device with millimeter units
  • Straight edge--Yard stick or similar


2. Check Your Gap

  • Place a straight edge flush with the face of the wheel and tire combination. Make sure the straight edge touches the tire in two spots to keep the straight edge even with the tire.
  • Use the measuring device to measure from the inside of the straight edge to the inner fender lip. (see diagram)
  • Make sure that the measurement is taken at the point where the wheel and tire is closest to the fender. For instance, on a car with a large amount of negative camber the tire and wheel may be closest at the front or rear edge of the fender.


Now that you have wheel spacers do not forget longer wheel bolts. Here is how to measure the bolts:


Here is a video courtesy of H&R